La Guarida has become a Havana institution especially for people visiting Havana; everyone's been here from Calvin Klein to the Queen of Spain. The setting is marvellous: one climbs cracked and battered marble stairs past a once-grand ballroom full of drying washing to an intimate and enchanting restaurant, which is usually humming with activity. The atmosphere is so wonderfully charming that it is easy to overlook the food which, while consistently good, could be better given that this is such a Mecca. In particular the menu is very slow to change (it was revamped for the first time in many years during 2006).

This is a very popular place worth the wait outside in distinctly insalubrious surroundings (bookings aren't taken). The restaurant has a curious status, being neither fully private nor fully state run. Rather, it is promoted as an Asturian cultural centre and is decorated accordingly,complete with football memorabilia. The wine rack is impressive, although, sadly, not always fully stocked. The tasty food comes in large portions at excellent prices: try the Lobster Termidor (CUC 9. 50). Service is also pretty good—once you actually get seated.

A chic source of first class Italian food, convenient for supper after the opera or ballet, or for those in need of good solid sustenance and ice-cold beer after a long morning's viewing of the Museo de Bellas Artes. The restaurant's interior was designed by Roberto Gottardi of National Art School fame and it’s a cut above most modern Havana eateries, a relief to both eye and taste buds if you’re all-frijoled-out. Further decorative delight is supplied by the pulchritudinous punters propping upthe bar.

This Spanish-Moorish-style hotel has one of Havana's most spectacular roof-top restaurants. If you want to enjoy breathtaking views over the city, show up early for dinner before the sun sets. Prices are on the high side, the atmosphere can be a bit dry and formal, and the quality isn't always the best, but the views make it an unforgettable experience all the same.

Whilst Havana's Chinatown doesn't enjoy a fraction of the choices of ingredients that Oriental restaurants in many other capitals enjoy, the chefs in the Barrio Chino's small establishments work wonders with vegetables, rice, duck, pork, chicken, fruit and nuts. Tien Tan's kitchen behind the ground floor restaurant is a fabulous sight-serried rows of young Cuban-Chinese men wield their woks like weapons in a sizzlingly hot kitchen, stir-frying at supersonic speed. The results are delicious al dente variations on traditional themes, with lots of fresh ginger and soy, best accompanied with cold Xing Dao.

Poor décor with cheap red table cloths being the highlight. Foodwise, the specialty is Pollo Lanzarote with honey-basil sauce. Not so cheap given how basic it is. We would strongly disuade people from visiting this Paladar at present due to reports of aggressive overcharging.

Wooden tables with rustic leather chairs are laid out in a small corridor in a train like fashion. Written-all-over walls in bodeguita-style with Che Guevara pictures is a nice try but still in Centro Habana kitch range.

l

On a backstreet one block from Zanja, this Chinese cultural association is named after a town in Guangdong province in southern China. The cool, spacious restaurant has great service, and is always full of Cubans. Expect good-quality dishes-all the Cuban favourites, as well as a few Chinese classics.

This is a classic paladar which offers authentic charm in a Cuban kitsch Centro Habana way. Main dishes are ridiculously overpriced (US$ 8-12) but the owner is lovely, making it worth the visit simply to see the inside of a normal house.