Santiago de Cuba city

At the far east of Cuba, Santiago de Cuba, the isle's second largest city, predates Havana and served as the island's first capital. Its colonial core is steeped in antiquity wholly distinct from Havana. It appears more "Caribbean" than Havana, thanks to its long–term associations with Jamaica and Haiti, which contributed English– and French–speaking immigrants who stitched their unique customs onto the cultural quilt of the city. Even the traditional clapboard houses hint at a Caribbean potpourri, as does the santigueros lilting tongue, and their exciting music.

Musical myths about Cuba come alive in Santiago; the center echoes with the rhythms of son, rumba and salsa, trova and bolero and there really does seem to be a band playing on every corner. The country's second city, located some 950km from Havana at the opposite end of the island, is as remote in character from the capital as it is in distance. The distinctly small town atmosphere in the narrow streets of the colonial center belies the city's size, while the local rhythmic accent, relative lack of new development, lower number of foreign visitors and the emphatically natural setting all serve to distinguish it.

The city started life in 1515 at the mouth of the Rio Paradas, as the third villa built by Diego Velazquez. The settlement soon loved to its present location and became Cuba's capital city until it was supplanted by Havana in 1607. As one of the nearest points on Cuba to the rest of the Caribbean Island nations, Santiago was the recipient of various waves of immigration. The first African slaves in Cuba were brought here, French colonists fleeing from neighboring Haiti settled here, and Jamaicans often made the short trip.

Santiago has often been an incubator of revolution, having played a key role in the revolutions of both 1898 and 1959. One of the major historical attractions of the Revolution, the Moncada Barracks is located here.

The city is noted for its hospitality and the warmth of its people, but it has become a prime hustling spot in recent years. The colonial center, though hilly, is most easily explored on foot. As with all cities in Cuba, streets in Santiago have pre and post revolutionary names, with the newer names the ones used in street signs.

Santiago is hottest in July and not just temperature wise as this is festival month. Rum flows in rivers, and the city throbs with music and dancing. Each barrio competes with its costumes, music and dancing before judges to win bragging rights for the year. The Carnival party stretches over a week towards the end of July and coincides with the national celebrations of 26 July (the date of Castro's attack on the Moncada Barracks).

The main downtown sites of interest – Plaza Dolores, Parque Céspedes, Museo Bacardí – can be seen in one day, with enough time also for Cuartel Moncada and Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia.

The main square, Parque Céspedes, emanates flavourful evocations of history. Diego Velásquez founded the city in 1514. Remarkably, his mansion still stands on the square and is furnished in period fashion. Here, too, is the Ayuntamiento (town hall) from where Fidel gave his victory speech after Batista was ousted; the impressive Basilica; and the Hotel Casa Granda, a grande dame hotel that provides a perfect vantage for watching the ebb and flow of life in the square.

Nearby, don't fail to visit Museo Municipal Emilio Bacardí Moreau, with eclectic displays ranging from an Egyptian mummy to colonial weaponry and contemporary art. Further out, in the modern Reparto Sueño district, Cuartel Moncade (Moncada Barracks) is a must–see.

The opening shots in Castro's Revolution were fired here on July 26, 1953, when the hot–blooded revolutionary led an ill–fated assault on the barracks. The site is now a school containing a museum. The graves of many revolutionaries who gave their lives can be seen at Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia, where foremost national hero José Martí is entombed.

A gem of a site, bypassed by most tourists, is San Juan Hill, site on July 1, 1898, of the legendary cavalry charge led supposedly by Teddy Roosevelt during the Spanish–American War. The story is just that. Legend! But the fascinating monuments and cannon here recall the real–life drama that day. And there are heaps to do outside the city, including the Parque Baconao and El Cobre, known for its Basilica – Cuba's main pilgrimage site. At sunset, drive out to Parque Histórico El Morro for the sunset cañonazo (firing of a cannon) and a criollo meal at Restaurante El Morro.

Nightlife? The Casa de la Trova is world–renowned venue for son à la Buena Vista Social Club, and the Tropicana cabaret is a blast.

Accommodations in town run the gamut, from some delightful casas particulares (private room rentals) and the quaint eight–room Hotel San Basilito to the post–modernist high–rise, deluxe Meliá Santiago.

This park encompasses the Cordillera de la Gran Piedra, a splendidly cool lush environment for bird watching & hiking.

History mentions a magic tree called "bacona", which cast a spell on the young Indian, enabling him to play music with the lagoon's shells, a gift that was passed to the trees when the boy died. Baconao also has an aquarium, which allows visitors to learn about the Caribbean's marine fauna in its tanks and tunnels.

Baconao Lagoon reflects the shadows of Cuba's pre–Hispanic inhabitants on the replica of a Taíno village, where vacationers are welcomed at a restaurant serving seafood and where music is played in the famous "órgano oriental" (eastern organ).

Chivirico is a picturesque village with a population of about 15,000 on the South coast of Cuba about half an hours drive west of Santiago de Cuba. Chivirico has many street vendors hawking all kinds of local specialties from pushcarts that resemble popcorn wagons.

As well as hotels Los Galeones and Brisas Sierra Mar there is of a small (two room) island hotel called Cayo Damas just a few miles outside of Chivirico.

The Reserva de la biosfera Baconao encompasses the Cordillera de la Gran Piedra, a splendidly cool lush environment for bird watching & hiking. The much deteriorated road winds up through ravines, growing ever steeper and more serpentine until it deposits you at the top of Pico Gran Pedra (1,234 meters), a distance of some 14 km. You pass through several ecosystems. Below is lush and thick with forest. As you climb, the vegetation opens out, becoming scrubbier, and the views grow more dramatic. Suddenly you emerge ona ridge with a view down the mountains to the north. It´s noticeably crisper and cooler up here, where clouds hover, swirling through the ancient tree ferns, tall pines, and bamboo. The road follows the ridgeline, giving views of the Atlantic to the north and Caribbean below.

The little villaje of Siboney, replete with wooden French style Caribbean homes, lies ina sheltered bay with a modestly appealing beach, Playa Siboney, encusped by coral rocks. Being the closest beach to the city, it´s popular with Cubaas who flock from Santiago to relax. A war memorial reclass the landing of US tropos on June 24, 2898.