Las Terezas

Las Terrazas is situated in Sierra del Rosario, one of Cuba's natural strongholds, which was designated a Biosphere Reserve by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 1985. It is a rural community project and tourist complex which takes its name from the terraces dug out of the hillsides during the late 1960s; as well as restoring the eco–system–damages by years of deforestation by 19th Century French coffee planters - the project aimed to provide the impoverished local campesinos with access to better housing, education and medical services.

UNESCO designated the area as a biosphere reserve in 1985. It's home to the zunzuncito (the world's smallest humming bird); Cuba's national bird, the red, white and blue tocororo; the planet's tiniest frog, about the size of a thumbnail and a huge variety of stunning flora. The history of coffee cultivation, which started in the region in the 19th century, is one of the major attractions for customers at the Buenavista Restaurant, which was built on the ruins of the coffee farm of same name, founded by French immigrants.

Soroa, also known as Cuba's Rainbow is located some 80km west of Havana and close to Las Terezas in the small valley of the Rio Manatiales. Founded as a French colonial coffee plantation in the 19th Century, it was originally famous for its orchid gardens, waterfall, and medicinal baths. In the 1940s Tomas Felipe Camacho, a lawyer from the Canary Islands living in Havana, decided to turn his Soroa summer residence into a shrine to his youngest daughter, Pilar, who has dies in childbirth. The 3,500 km square park on the slopes of the Guaniguanico mountain range is home to 6,000 species of ornamental plants, trees and flowers, including an orchid garden with 700 species of orchids, 110 of them indigenous to Cuba.

The region's unspoilt lush environment is an excellent are for cycling. Excursions include the unique baths at the so–called "Poza del Amor" (Pond of Love).

Just west of the Sierra de los Rosario, approx 120 km West of Havana, in the foothills of the Sierra de los Organos, you'll find La Güira National Park and San Diego de los Baños. La Güira is a small park that is a favorite stop for bird–watching tours and general sightseers.

Balneario San Diego de los Banos, is a small town which is most well known as a natural spa for the relief of arthritis, rheumatism and skin problems.

Legend has it that its fame spread after the mineral springs cured Taita Domingo, a slave whose masters had granted him his freedom because he was seriously ill with skin lesions, and who wandered around the farm, has survived the passing of time. During one of his walks, Taita Domingo discovered a spring later called La Gallina, which waters relieved and even cured his leprosy.

Its waters have been used since 1700; and the Spanish developed it into a spa in 1891. In the 1980s it was developed into a resort for health tourism. It is looking a little worn these days.

Cayo Levisa

About 20 kilometres from the Viñales Valley, off the northwest coast of Cuba, lays a cluster of tiny islands enveloped by thick jungles of tropical mangrove and bordered by fabulous white beaches. The most idyllic amongst these is Cayo Levisa.

This small coral key off the north side of Pinar del Rio is part of the Archipielago de los Colorados, which sits in the Gulf of Mexico. It's known for its white coral beaches, thick mangroves, abundant seabirds, and seas rich in red snapper, sea bass, lobster, marlin, and other species. This is 2km offshore and ringed by 3.5km of sugar–white beaches. From the early 1940s, American author Ernest Hemingway had a fishing camp on Cayo Paraiso, a smaller coral island 10km east. Recently an exclusive tourist resort has been built on Cayo Levisa.

Cayo Levisa is popular with divers for its abundant black coral and 23 dive locations. A boat leaves for Cayo Levisa at 10am and 6pm from adjacent the coast guard station at Palma Rubia.

Pinar del Rio city

Pinar del Rio (population 125,000), 178km west of Havana, is named for the native pine trees that once flourished along the banks of the Rio Guama. It was founded in 1669. The town is known for its neoclassical buildings with decorative art nouveau frontages. While tourist literature suggests that this was the 'Paradise in the West' we remain far from convinced and would suggest that this is one town that can be safely avoided unless absolutely necessary.

Places to visit if you do stay include the Provincial Museum of the History of Pinar del Rio, Museum of Natural Sciences, Tobacco Museum and Calle Jose Marti

Maria La Gorda

María la Gorda is renowned as one of Cuba's premier dive centers. The Villa María la Gorda resort (there is no village) lies on the southern shore of the Bahía de Corrientes, at the far west end of Cuba. The bay cuts a huge scallop into the Península de Guanahacabibes, a ragged and uninhabited witch's finger of land that juts out into the Strait of Yucatan. After 35 miles of tortuous piste you arrive at Cabo San Antonio, pinned by a lighthouse – Faro Rincali – at the westernmost tip of Cuba. The cape hooks around to Playa Las Tumbas, a gorgeous white–sand beach. The recently opened Hotel Villa Cabo San Antonio makes a great base for tarpon fishing and scuba diving. A sunken wreck lies a few fathoms down.

The geologically young peninsula is composed of limestone topped by scrubby woodland and mangroves, protected within the 121,572–hectare Guanahacabibes Peninsula Biosphere Reserve. Jutías (rabbit size, guinea–pig–like rodents) are abundant. So, too, wild pigs, deer, and more than 170 bird species, including such endemics as the tiny zunzunito hummingbird – the world's smallest bird. The region was a last refuge for Cuba's original aborigine population, and several archeological sites can be seen. In springtime, cangrejos (crabs) swarm up from the oceans en masse. Visits are arranged through the Estación Ecológico, where guides (compulsory) can be hired. Several hiking trails grant access to the wilderness. One – Sendero Cuevas Las Perlas – leads to underground caverns.

The Bahía de Corrientes is fringed by a narrow sliver of talcum–white sand dissolving into a coruscating turquoise waters. Whale sharks and huge manta rays are commonly seen by divers provisioned by the María la Gorda International Dive Center. El Valle de Coral Negro (Black Coral Valley) is another exhilarating draw.

And the name? Well, according to local lore, "Fat Mary" she came from Venezuela with pirates. She settled on the shores of the bay, where she leased her ample flesh to passing sailors.

The Valle de Viñales is enshrined within Viñales National Park. Dominating the valley are the dramatic mogotes in whose shadows gaujiros lovingly tend their plots of tobacco and maize. The setting resembles a Vietnamese or Chinese painting, especially in the early morning, when mists settle above the valley. At its heart is the eponymous village, Viñales (pop. 10,000), whose sleepy yesteryear charm is a draw unto itself. Viñales is 26km north of Pinar de Rio and 212 west of Havana, and was founded in 1875.

Viñales is on many tourists circuit, which typically may include 2–3 days there alongside a trip to the capital Havana. This inevitably means that you will not be alone in this sleepy town, yet even with hundreds of private casa particulares resonating to European accents the place does not lose its charm. This really is one of the premier destinations in Cuba.

The geologically young peninsula is composed of limestone topped by scrubby woodland and mangroves, protected within the 121,572–hectare Guanahacabibes Peninsula Biosphere Reserve. Jutías (rabbit size, guinea–pig–like rodents) are abundant. So, too, wild pigs, deer, and more than 170 bird species, including such endemics as the tiny zunzunito hummingbird – the world's smallest bird. The region was a last refuge for Cuba´s original aborigine population, and several archeological sites can be seen. In springtime, cangrejos (crabs) swarm up from the oceans en masse. Visits are arranged through the Estación Ecológico, where guides (compulsory) can be hired. Several hiking trails grant access to the wilderness. One – Sendero Cuevas Las Perlas – leads to underground caverns.