Admission: FREE
Open-3pm Sun; 10am Sat
Tel. +53 (7) 878 1661

This venue was recently taken over by new management, and was also relocated to a two-storey building in the heart of Jesús María, a troubled neighbourhood in Old Havana. But the newly appointed director seems to be aware of what the institution can do for the community. Tango and rumba feature through the week, sometimes with amateur musicians, sometimes with major acts.

This club has fallen on hard times but from Thursdays to Sundays it still features some very good soloists and small groups playing traditional trova and, more recently, bolero. You'll sometimes find comedy on, plus nueva trova singers.

El Gran Palenque is home to the world-renowned dance troupe Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba. The venue's Sábado de la Rumba (on Saturdays) is a pioneering event on the island and gives you the chance to see genuine Afro-Cuban dances and rituals. Performances come from members of the conjunto and invited guests, and take place in the large outdoor patio. The mixed bill changes regularly and the atmosphere is almost always hot. Expect a strong, loyal crowd of Cuban regulars, hustlers included.

The home of the National Union of Writers and Artists is a grand old Vedado mansion, where a large veranda serves as a stage and its patio provides table seating. It's best known for La Peña del Ambia, a gathering on Wednesday afternoons, which features all types of music and dance traditions from around Cuba; on alternate Wednesdays trova and son are played. The place is jam-packed by 5pm, so arrive by 4. 30pm if you want a table. Saturday night is devoted to bolero, featuring the country's top soloists, such as, Ramón Fabián Veloz and Roberto Sánchez.