Trinidad 2 nights
Beat the heat for a stroll around Cienfuegos' Parque Martí before heading east along the Circuito Sur. The forested Sierra Escambray mountains drop down to the dancing teal-blue Caribbean Sea - an impressive backdrop for the roller-coaster ride to Trinidad, Cuba's foremost colonial city. Just exploring the streets here is reward enough. The superbly run deluxe Iberostar Gran Trinidad is the place to stay for those with deep pockets; otherwise select a casa particular (private room rental), such as Casa Colonial Muñoz. After dinner at Paladar Estela, you'll want to take in traditional music at the Casa de la Trova then get in the groove at Disco Ayala, inside a cave. An organized excursion to the Salto de Caburní waterfall in the Sierra Escambray or a steam train ride through the Valle de los Ingenios are fun side trips.
Exit Trinidad heading east along Calle Camilo Cienfuegos, which becomes the Circuito Sur for Sancti Spíritus via Banao. It's incredibly scenic as you drop down into the Valle de los Ingenios (Sugar Mills Valley) and sweep past fields of rippling sugarcane. Be sure to stop at Hacienda Iznaga to buy lace tablecloths or blouses; and to climb the seven-story tower (CUC1) for a view of the valley.
The highway then dips and rises through the foothills of the Altos de Banoa, whose wild, barren crags seem to belong in the Scottish Highlands. The Circuito Sur becomes the Circunvalación (ring-road) as you arrive in Sancti Spíritus, permitting you to skirt the city if you wish. To explore the city center, follow the Circunvalación to the bus station and turn left onto Bartolomé Maso (Carretera Central); then left at the major intersection with Avenida de los Mártires, which takes you to Plaza Sánchez, where you can park and explore on foot. Visiting the city will steal an hour or two from a long day, so be sure to set off early in the morning.
Exit Plaza Sánchez to the northeast, turn right and follow the narrow one-way system back to Avenida de los Mártires and Bartolomé Maso, which leads back to the bus station. Cross the Circunvalación and you're on your way to Ciego de Ávila. There's no reason whatsoever to stop in Ciego. The Carretera Central runs through its core. Stay on the Carretera all the way to Camagüey. Drive with extreme caution. This section of the highway is heavily trafficked and many of the modern buses and trucks speed. There are constant hazards, including plodding ox-carts and bicyclists, plus the inevitable potholes.
There are no sites of interest whatsoever on the two- or three-hour drive between Ciego and Camagüey. And the only rest stop worth a mention is Finca Oasis, a rustic recreation of a farmstead, with geese and goats and a thatched roadside restaurant serving criollo food and snacks. There are gas stations in Ciego, near Finca Oasis, and at Florida, about 20 miles west of Camagüey.
