Cuba is made for tropical tourism: the diamond-dust beaches and bathtub-warm seas the color of peacock feathers; the bottle-green mountains and jade valleys full of dramatic formations; and the ancient cities, with their flower-bedecked balconies, rococo churches, and palaces and castles evocative
of the once mighty power of Spain. There are the cabarets to visit, and mojitos and cuba libres to enjoy, and the world's finest cigars to smoke fresh from the factory, as you rumble down the highway in a chrome-spangled '55 Cadillac to the rhythm of the rhumba on
the radio.
The country is blessed with possibility. Cuba is a large island: it's sheer size 1,250 km end to end takes many visitors by surprise. So where to go? You'll want at least two weeks to explore the main highlights, and longer if you want to include the eastern provinces. Here's the perfect 21-day self-drive itinerary that takes in the entire country:
2 nights
Driving west into Pinar del Río province, skip the autopista in favor of the Circuito Norte coast road. You'll need a good map to avoid missing the turn-off for Las Terrazas, worth a visit to see this experimental rural community with artists studios and nature trails. Your goal is Viñales, a sleepy and delightful village surrounded by mogotes - fantastic limestone formations. Touristy it may be, but a boat ride through the Cuevas del Indio is worthwhile. Overnight at Hotel .... read more
Driving west into Pinar del Río province, skip the autopista in favor of the Circuito Norte coast road. You'll need a good map to avoid missing the turn-off for Las Terrazas, worth a visit to see this experimental rural community with artists studios and nature trails. Your goal is Viñales, a sleepy and delightful village surrounded by mogotes - fantastic limestone formations. Touristy it may be, but a boat ride through the Cuevas del Indio is worthwhile. Overnight at Hotel .... read more
1 night
There's no avoiding the long, boring drive via the autopista to reach Cienfuegos. Get an early start. At Jagüey Grande turn south for Peninsula de Zapata, stopping for lunch at Restaurante Colibrí, at La Boca. Fill up on gas here and tour the crocodile farm before continuing to Playa Girón, site of the Bay of Pigs landing. The Museo Playa Girón will excite military and history buffs. read more
There's no avoiding the long, boring drive via the autopista to reach Cienfuegos. Get an early start. At Jagüey Grande turn south for Peninsula de Zapata, stopping for lunch at Restaurante Colibrí, at La Boca. Fill up on gas here and tour the crocodile farm before continuing to Playa Girón, site of the Bay of Pigs landing. The Museo Playa Girón will excite military and history buffs. read more
2 nights
Beat the heat for a stroll around Cienfuegos' Parque Martí before heading east along the Circuito Sur. The forested Sierra Escambray mountains drop down to the dancing teal-blue Caribbean Sea - an impressive backdrop for the roller-coaster ride to Trinidad, Cuba's foremost colonial city. Just exploring the streets here is reward enough. The superbly run deluxe Iberostar Gran Trinidad is the place to stay for those with deep pockets; otherwise select a casa particular (private room rental), ... read more
Beat the heat for a stroll around Cienfuegos' Parque Martí before heading east along the Circuito Sur. The forested Sierra Escambray mountains drop down to the dancing teal-blue Caribbean Sea - an impressive backdrop for the roller-coaster ride to Trinidad, Cuba's foremost colonial city. Just exploring the streets here is reward enough. The superbly run deluxe Iberostar Gran Trinidad is the place to stay for those with deep pockets; otherwise select a casa particular (private room rental), ... read more
2 nights
The drive to Sancti Spíritus is a scenic stunner. Pass by Sancti Spíritus town and follow the Carretera Central eastbound. Stop for a traditional country lunch at Finca Oasis (12 miles east of Ciego de Ávila) and arrive in Camagüey in mid-afternoon. The "City of Plazas" is well-named. Plaza San Juan de Díos is the place to be at sunset. Next day you can explore the other key plazas. Camagüey is a large city. Take your time strolling, being sure not to miss Plaza del Carmen ... read more
The drive to Sancti Spíritus is a scenic stunner. Pass by Sancti Spíritus town and follow the Carretera Central eastbound. Stop for a traditional country lunch at Finca Oasis (12 miles east of Ciego de Ávila) and arrive in Camagüey in mid-afternoon. The "City of Plazas" is well-named. Plaza San Juan de Díos is the place to be at sunset. Next day you can explore the other key plazas. Camagüey is a large city. Take your time strolling, being sure not to miss Plaza del Carmen ... read more
2 nights
It's a full day's drive to Santiago de Cuba, passing through Las Tunas and Bayamo, where Cuba's independence struggle was spawned. After lunch at the bodega-themed La Sevillana, take a couple of hours to explore around Parque Céspedes then continue via El Cobre, to visit the Basilica. Arriving in Santiago de Cuba, check into the Hotel San Basilio, in the heart of the colonial quarter (for more sophistication, the Meliá Santiago reaches toward international par) ... read more
It's a full day's drive to Santiago de Cuba, passing through Las Tunas and Bayamo, where Cuba's independence struggle was spawned. After lunch at the bodega-themed La Sevillana, take a couple of hours to explore around Parque Céspedes then continue via El Cobre, to visit the Basilica. Arriving in Santiago de Cuba, check into the Hotel San Basilio, in the heart of the colonial quarter (for more sophistication, the Meliá Santiago reaches toward international par) ... read more
2 nights
Head east to Guantánamo and just east of town, turn north for the Zoológica La Piedra - an amazing "stone zoo" with representations of animals from around the world. Further along, steel yourself for La Farola, the thrilling mountain road that leads to Baracoa, the oldest city in Cuba. Here make Hotel El Castillo your base. The views from this former castle are spectacular, and the restaurant is the best in town... read more
Head east to Guantánamo and just east of town, turn north for the Zoológica La Piedra - an amazing "stone zoo" with representations of animals from around the world. Further along, steel yourself for La Farola, the thrilling mountain road that leads to Baracoa, the oldest city in Cuba. Here make Hotel El Castillo your base. The views from this former castle are spectacular, and the restaurant is the best in town... read more
1 night
Set out early for Holguín province via the badly denuded coast road. Allow four hours to arrive at Cueto, just before which turn south for Sitio Histórico Birán, Fidel Castro's birthplace; the original homestead has been recreated in idealized form. Retrace your steps north, continuing via Banes - a superbly scenic drive - and the Chorro del Maita archeological site. Overnight at Guardalavaca, where all-inclusives are your sole option for accommodation ... read more
Set out early for Holguín province via the badly denuded coast road. Allow four hours to arrive at Cueto, just before which turn south for Sitio Histórico Birán, Fidel Castro's birthplace; the original homestead has been recreated in idealized form. Retrace your steps north, continuing via Banes - a superbly scenic drive - and the Chorro del Maita archeological site. Overnight at Guardalavaca, where all-inclusives are your sole option for accommodation ... read more
3 nights
Head out early for Holguín, with time to stroll historic Plaza Calixto García and Plaza San José. Then, head west along the Carretera Central, turning north at Guaímaro to reach the Circuito Norte coast road. You'll arrive at Cayo Coco in time for dusk and the spectacular flight of flamingoes returning to their nighttime roosts. You've earned time for two full days relaxing on sugar-white beaches, with time for watersports, including diving and even sportfishing... read more
Head out early for Holguín, with time to stroll historic Plaza Calixto García and Plaza San José. Then, head west along the Carretera Central, turning north at Guaímaro to reach the Circuito Norte coast road. You'll arrive at Cayo Coco in time for dusk and the spectacular flight of flamingoes returning to their nighttime roosts. You've earned time for two full days relaxing on sugar-white beaches, with time for watersports, including diving and even sportfishing... read more
1 night
Suitably rested, return to the Circuito Norte at Morón and head west to Remedios, another colonial gem worth a hour's stroll. If you're traveling around year's end, time your visit for the Christmas Day parranda, when the entire town explodes in firework fever (book accommodation far in advance). A spectacular side-trip is to Cayo Santa María, which adds two hours round-trip but offers sublime sands and seas. Continue to Santa Clara... read more
Suitably rested, return to the Circuito Norte at Morón and head west to Remedios, another colonial gem worth a hour's stroll. If you're traveling around year's end, time your visit for the Christmas Day parranda, when the entire town explodes in firework fever (book accommodation far in advance). A spectacular side-trip is to Cayo Santa María, which adds two hours round-trip but offers sublime sands and seas. Continue to Santa Clara... read more
