Cienfuegos 1 night
There's no avoiding the long, boring drive via the autopista to reach Cienfuegos. Get an early start. At Jagüey Grande turn south for Peninsula de Zapata, stopping for lunch at Restaurante Colibrí, at La Boca. Fill up on gas here and tour the crocodile farm before continuing to Playa Girón, site of the Bay of Pigs landing. The Museo Playa Girón will excite military and history buffs. From here, the route via Yaguaramas leads via impoverished yet photogenic old-world farming communities. Arriving in Cienfuegos around sunset, check into the Hotel Unión, one block from the main square. The hotel has an excellent albeit overly-chilled restaurant, but for ambience join the other tourists in town for lobster at Palacio del Valle - the city's astounding architectural gem - despite its dirty table clothes and overrated dishes.
Exiting Cienfuegos isn't easy. The two route options aren't clearly marked. The easiest route is to follow Avenida 5 de Septiembre from Calle 37 (the main drag), passing the Necropolis en route to Rancho Luna. You'll see Trinidad signed at the Servi-Cupet gas station mid-way to Rancho Luna; turn left here. It's a lovely roller-coaster ride to the junction with the Circuito Sur - the coast road that eventually leads to Trinidad (to the right). There are usually plenty of Cubans hitch-hiking at the junction. For a short but intriguing diversion, turn left. After about two miles you'll arrive at the Jardín Botánico Soledad, a 94-hectare botanical garden with fabulous collections of palms, succulents, and bamboos.
After exploring the garden, turn east for Trinidad. Ahead, the saw-toothed Escambray mountains soar ridge upon ridge. The massif forms a rain shadow. Sugarcane fades to parched golden grasslands munched by hardy, humped cattle. Further east, the mountains come down to the shore, where rivers have gnawed large ravines spanned by narrow bridges over rivermouths with little beaches. There are very few facilities along this stretch of road. An exception is Hacienda La Vega (two miles west of Playa Ingles) - it serves criollo meals and simple sandwiches; bring repellent, as the biting insects are fierce! The hacienda is a working cattle ranch and if you have time, you can take horseback rides.
The last bridge crosses the Río Yaguanabo. There's usually a "Stop" sign here. Ignore it! It's been put there by hustlers wishing to drum up business for casas particultares (private room rentals) in the city. As you power up the hill upon which Trinidad is poised, expect to be waved down by hustlers trying to steer you to specific houses. Don't believe anyone who tells you that any particular house that you wish to stay at is full, or closed!.
