Baracoa 2 nights
Head east to Guantánamo and just east of town, turn north for the Zoológica La Piedra - an amazing "stone zoo" with representations of animals from around the world. Further along, steel yourself for La Farola, the thrilling mountain road that leads to Baracoa, the oldest city in Cuba. Here make Hotel El Castillo your base. The views from this former castle are spectacular, and the restaurant is the best in town. Take time for an excursion to the dramatic mountain called El Yunque, and check out Museo Arquelógico Cueva del Paraíso. Otherwise Baracoa is all about absorbing the ancient city's esoteric mood. For that, walk the streets.
Years have passed since road engineers laid the formerly paved road between Baracoa and Holguín province. It shows! This road is in abysmal condition for most of the way, with the tarmac having washed away completely in many sections, along with the foundation. Much of the year entire sections are reduced to a bouillabaisse of mud. Even in dry season, at times you'll be crawling along in first gear. Get an early start on the day. The denuded section begins almost as soon as you leave Baracoa. At least the scenery is fabulous.
Passing into Holguín province, the scenery takes a dramatic turn, with pine forest and scrub replacing lush tropical humid forests. Soon you'll see signs warning that photography is prohibited. Ostensibly this is because the next 10 miles or so are a major industrial zone that includes Empresa Comandante Che Guevara, Cuba's largest metal-ore processing plant. The real reason, you'll quickly surmise, is that this is one of the most badly polluted zones in the world - not something the Cuban government wants shown to the world. You're now back on paved road approaching Moa.
If you want to visit Fidel's birthplace at Sitio Histórico Birán, turn left immediately west of Guaro, but be warned that this is a badly deteriorated road. The alternative is to continue on the paved road to Cueto, then left at the major road junction (there'll
be lots of hitchhikers) three miles west of town. Just before the Loynaz Echevarría sugar factory, cross the railroad tracks and turn left for Birán - the next four miles are abysmal, with potholes big enough to swallow your car. To continue to Banes and Guardalavaca, retrace you steps to Guaro and turn north for Banes, beyond which the well-paved road winds up through the lovely Grupo de Maniabón before dropping down to Guardalavaca.
