Cuba is made for tropical tourism: the diamond-dust beaches and bathtub-warm seas the color of peacock feathers; the bottle-green mountains and jade valleys full of dramatic formations; and the ancient cities, with their flower-bedecked balconies, rococo churches, and palaces and castles evocative
of the once mighty power of Spain. There are the cabarets to visit, and mojitos and cuba libres to enjoy, and the world's finest cigars to smoke fresh from the factory, as you rumble down the highway in a chrome-spangled '55 Cadillac to the rhythm of the rhumba on the radio.
The country is blessed with possibility. Cuba is a large island: it's sheer size - 1,250 km end to end - takes many visitors by surprise. So where to go? Here's an 10 day self-drive itinerary that takes in the two best trips from Havana both West to Pinar del Rio and East to Trinidad.
3 nights (4 nights total in Havana is a must, leave at least one night at the end of your trip)
So much to see, so little time. You're best to concentrate your focus on Habana Vieja, where the main plazas are chock-full of museums and historic sites. Don't miss Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral, and Plaza Vieja, where Taberna La Muralla serves delicious home-brewed beer.
Around Parque Central, the Fábrica de Partagás tobacco factory will give you 'Tobacco 2001' on the cigar-rolling process. In many regards the entire island is a lived-in museum: the two-part Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes displays a stunning collection of art; be sure to visit both the international and Cuban sections. Sure,
it's melancholic and occasionally gory, but for a profile on the revolution the Museo de la Revolución, nearby, is de rigeur.
Next, stroll the Malecón and the tree-shaded streets of Vedado, taking in the Cemeterio Colón and Plaza de la Revolución it's a long walk, deserving a refreshing
ice cream at Coppelia and a mojito pick-me-up on the garden bar of the 1930s-era Hotel Nacional. Linger for an evening of entertainment at the hotel's Cabaret Parisien followed by some bolero at Gato Tuerto, nearby. Alternatively for some of the best salsa anywhere in the world visit Casa de Musica Galiano (see Who's
Playing for a complete list of groups). If you want some beach time jump into a taxi to one of lovely beaches 20 minutes East of Havana (US$ 15 each way). Megano is probably the best of a string of beaches collectively known as Santa Maria which are great for long strolls. Alternatively you may wish to relax by one of Havana's comfortable swimming pools. The rooftop of the Saratoga offers the most quality, the National most atmosphere and Club Havana most facilities (although it is a bit of a trek into Siboney).
2 nights
Driving west into Pinar del Río province, skip the autopista in favor of the Circuito Norte coast road. You'll need a good map to avoid missing the turn-off for Las Terrazas, worth a visit to see this experimental rural community with artists studios and nature trails. Your goal is Viñales, a sleepy and delightful village surrounded by
mogotes fantastic limestone formations. Touristy it may be, but a boat ride through the Cuevas del Indio is worthwhile. Overnight at Hotel Las Jazmines, perched atop a mogote, with fantastic views (room in the original structure are best) and the best food in town.
1 nights
From Vinales it is an hour's drive to Cayo Levisa. This provides a great excuse to relax on a lovely beach. While the water is not ideal for swimming this is a great location for water-sports and the obligatory boat crossing to the cayo itself is a delight. There is only one place to stay on the island which has lovely low rise up market wooden cabins.
Alternatively if you wish to dive in
one of Cuba's best spots head to Pinar del Rio and keep heading west. The first hour's drive out from Pinar del Rio will test your nerves with the incessant slow moving traffic but it is worth it once you arrive at the Nature Park which contains Maria LaGorda (named after a legendary fat woman!). Accommodation and food is pretty basic and watch out for mosquitoes but the diving is fabulous
1 nights
There's no avoiding the long, boring drive via the autopista to reach Cienfuegos. If you want to break the drive and especially if you have been all the way to Maria La Gorda then consider spending a night at the lovely ecological La Moka hotel at Las Terezas. Alternatively get an early start.
At Jagüey Grande turn south for Peninsula de Zapata, stopping for lunch at Restaurante Colibrí, at La Boca. Fill up on gas
here and tour the crocodile farm before continuing to Playa Girón, site of the Bay of Pigs landing. The Museo. Playa Girón will excite military and history buffs. From here, the route via Yaguaramas leads via impoverished yet photogenic old-world farming communities. Arriving in Cienfuegos around sunset, check into the Hotel Unión, one block from the main square.
2 nights
Beat the heat for a stroll around Cienfuegos' Parque Martí before heading east along the Circuito Sur. The forested Sierra Escambray mountains drop down to the dancing teal-blue Caribbean Sea an impressive backdrop for the roller-coaster ride to Trinidad, Cuba's foremost colonial city. Just exploring
the streets here is reward enough.
The superbly run deluxe Iberostar Gran Trinidad is the place to stay for those with deep pockets; otherwise select a casa particular (private room rental), such as Casa Colonial Muñoz. After dinner at Paladar Estela, you'll want to take in traditional music at the Casa de la Trova then get in the groove at Disco Ayala, inside a cave.
1 nights
The drive to Sancti Spíritus is a scenic stunner, so if you have the time and the energy return to Havana via this town, stopping for lunch before you head back to Havana on the autopista.
One last night in Havana should merit a final splurge. Spend your last evening at la Guardia, the most intimate and atmospheric Cuban
paladar. Afterwards, if you have not seen a top class Cuban band play, then you really have no excuse not to go now. Pulsating music, a great atmosphere and great dancing go enjoy. There is no shame in bar perching if you dancing legs are taking a break
