and texture for each part of the cigar, whether it be filler or wrapper, knowing exactly how far they can compress or stretch a leaf to achieve the final, glorious result.

Before the Revolution there were countless brands of cigar in Cuba, many of them produced from small tobacco estates in Vuelta Abajo, the part of Pinar del Río province in the west of the island of Cuba where the world's best tobacco is grown. This multiplicity of brands is attested to by the fabulous archive of cigar packaging now housed in the National Library and particularly by the cigar bands included in it, which constitute a fascinating document of social history, for they were produced specially for all Havana's principal personalities: politicians, Mafiosi, visitors and important Habaneros. The pursuit of Vitolfilia, the collection of cigar packaging has numerous aficionados who constantly correspond with one another in the hope of perfecting their collections.

Many of the labels are embellished with images of pretty cubanasin languorous poses. During the nineteenth century, despite their husbands' locking them away in their houses like precious treasures which no-one else could look upon, the majority of habaneras smoked slim cigars, using clever little mother-of-pearl handled tongs so as not to sully the flowing folds of their silk dresses.

Now habanerastend only to smoke cigarettes, although they are appreciative of foreign ladies who accessorise their evening attire with serious cigars. In present-day Cuba, cigar-smoking tends to be a male preserve, being particularly appreciated by the older generation, to whose health it seems to do little damage, if one goes by the sheer numbers that one sees in the street of wizened, contented old suntanned faces with the chewed remains of a fat cigar being mumbled round in circles between toothless gums. What unites all cigar-smokers is passion for the habano, so whether or not you have money to burn, choose your cigar with care and smoke it with the respect it deserves.