Havana is the Mecca for cigar smokers and one that is open all year round. Knowledge, experience, glamour and authenticity are all present in abundance on the tropical island that is home to the best cigars in the world. Cigars in Cuba are not just a part of the economy but are an intricate component of the country’s history, culture and everyday life. For an introduction to Cuban cigars where better to start than the Partagás cigar factory (520 Industria St., behind the Capitolio) in Havana? Cigars have been produced here since 1845 and the tour will create an appreciation for the art of cigar making that will last long after your return home. Even non-smokers are bound to exit impressed and with a greater understanding of the lure of the cigar. This is also the place to sample the goods; just before you exit to the street veer left through the wooden door into the store aptly named La Casa Del Habanos, probably the most famous cigar store in the world. The selection of cigars available is impressive and the staff knowledgeable and unassuming. Bear in mind that this store is busy with constant traffic so probably best to pick a shorter cigar to enjoy with a cup of coffee or one of Alfred’s famous mojitos. One of the recent accomplishments of the Cuban cigar industry has been the release of a large selection of shorter cigars of exemplary quality of which the best include Hoyo De Monterey Petit Robusto, Romeo y Julieta Short Churchill, and my recommendation, the Montecristo Petit Edmundo. I love this little cigar, perfect for when you need a relatively quick smoke that is full of flavor and richness. At a 52 ring guage and the length of 110 mm, this cigar will fill your mouth with the taste of cocoa juxtaposed with cedar and spice. It is a brilliant smoke of medium strength with a long finish usually reserved for a much larger cigar.  For a completely different environment to smoke my favorite locale is La Casa Del Habanos in Miramar. Commonly referred to as La Quinta for it’s location on the beautiful 5th Ave (Calle 5ta No. 1407, esquina 16) this was the first high end cigar store in Cuba when its doors opened in 1990. This is a smoker’s store. Outside of the regular tourist environment it is quieter and a destination in its own right. This is the place to take your time and truly take advantage of the expertise of Osmany Rios Moreno (who studied under Abel Esposito at Partagás) and the rst of the staff. The selection is large and the suburban setting allows you to slow down after the hectic pace of the city. Order a coffee or a drink from the bar, or even lunch from the adjoining restaurant, then relax in a wicker chair and enjoy a larger, longer smoke. One of my recommendations would be the Punch Churchill. This cigar is one of the classic Churchills. Recent vintages are reminiscent of the glory this cigar achieved in the late 90s with a steady even draw that fills your mouth with the flavors of spice; leather and wood (stay away from the 1999 – 2001 eras as there were quality issues throughout the Cuban cigar industry leading to far too frequent issues with plugged cigars). They are beautifully constructed and the wrappers I have seen on recent vintages are absolutely glorious to both the senses of sight and touch. The flavors evolve as you enjoy the cigar getting richer and fuller the further down the cigar you get and leaving you fulfilled – grateful that you indulged yourself. This medium strength cigar will only get better with age. Other longer smokes I would recommend include the Montecristo No. 2, the Hoyo De Monterey Double Corona or the H. Upmann Sir Winston. All the above from the period of 2003 to present should be outstanding. Further west past Miramar is the enclave of Club Habana (Calle 5ta e/ 188 y 192, Mirimar). This was the exclusive Biltmore Club pre-revolution and although it boasts tennis courts, gym, fine dining and a private beach the real draw for cigar smokers is the La Casa Del Habanos run by Enrique Mons. One of the living icons of the cigar world, Mons was in charge of quality for Cubatabaco (predecessor of Habanos) for almost 20 years. Mons was the manager who opened La Quinta when it was the first of the modern cigar stores opened in Cuba. I doubt there has been a cigar produced in Cuba in the last 35 years that Mons doesn’t have an opinion on. He will gladly tell you what is smoking well and what he is currently recommending. The comfortable lounge is a great place to sit, smoke and chat. Here it would be appropriate to smoke a full flavored cigar. This would be a great place to enjoy the resurgence of the Montecristo No. 2. Once revered as the ultimate pyramid it suffered through a couple of quiet years. Current production is, once again, a king amongst cigars. The wrapper was silky and shiny with oils you could feel on your fingers. From first light the flawless construction showed itself with a full, even draw. Initially the flavor was surprisingly sweet with a mixture of peppery spice. As I smoked down to the second half of the cigar the sweetness lingered but the spiciness increased. These flavors danced right down to the nub of the cigar. The aromatic blue smoke was the kind you thought only existed in print ads. Look for recent vintages of this cigar; it will remind you of years gone by.  If you happen to find yourself exploring the hectic streets of Havana Vieja make sure you visit another cigar destination, the hotel Conde de Villanueva (Calle Mercaderes 202, esq. Lamparilla). The building was built as the mansion of Claudio Martínez de Pinillos, Count of Villanueva but has been given a new life as a 9 room hotel. Every room and suite is named after a brand of cigars but that is not what makes it a haven for smokers. As you enter the airy courtyard, on your right you will see a flight of stairs to the old servant quarters on the mezzanine, at the top of the stairs is a hidden gem of a La Casa Del Habanos. This hidden wonder is managed by Antonio Hevia and staffed by one of the most overlooked in store rollers in the city, Reynaldo. This beautiful little store with adjoining bar is truly one of the hidden treasures in the cigar world. Whether you select one of Reynaldo’s exquisitely rolled cigars or something from the full assortment of Habanos’ offerings I would recommend you have a quick coffee or drink in the bar and light your cigar. My choice for a great cigar in the environment of the airy courtyard would be a La Gloria Cubana Medal D’or No. 2. Recently I rediscovered this overlooked brand when I found a couple of boxes from 1997 in the back of the humidor. How do I describe this epicurean experience properly? My mouth was filled with the taste of cedar and leather all coated in a fine mist of honey. A mild cigar by most standards I found this to be a perfect way to wile away an afternoon. The draw was consistent and full and the flavors married well with a couple of Serrano coffees. Above all else cigar smoking in Cuba is still an unbridled pleasure to be savored and appreciated. It fits the ambience, the culture, and is an intricate part of the Cuban experience. The selection offered is unmatched and the knowledge of the industry immense and forthcoming. Not to be missed. Amir Saarony has made over 50 trips to Havana and is well known in the international cigar world. He has written articles for magazines, had his photographs published, coordinated television filming in Havana and introduced many to the splendors of Havana the city, its people and its cigars for whom he has a close affinity. He lives in Toronto, Canada. Tips: Sample lots of cigars individually before you decide on a box or two to take home. Broaden your horizons and experiment with new brands and sizes. Take advantage of the forthcoming and easy going nature of the staff of the La Casa del Habanos stores to learn about what’s going on in the Havana cigar world. Enjoy and savor the process of buying your cigars, this should be an enjoyable experience not a hurried supermarket grab or back street hustle. |
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