El Mejunje is nothing less than a revelation for many visitors to Cuba. Located in the little visited town of Santa Clara it shows a little seen side of Cuban culture with energy, aplomb and style If you’re sitting at home right now planning your sun-soaked, palm-swaying, mojito-sipping Cuban summer holiday, you’ll probably, like 100, 000 others, or at least all the people on your flight, be doing your head in weighing up what, and how much, you can fit into your 2 weeks break without completely defeating the whole purpose of a holiday. And you’ll be trying to decide (I can hear you now….god, I must write to Anna’s brother in law, Tony, who’s sister’s friend went there last year) what are the absolute musts, could-be’s and no, I-really-don’t-have-time-for-that places. There’s Havana, of course. Then, probably the very beautiful Viñales, sweet and charming Cienfuegos, historic Trinidad or the more revolutionary second city, Santiago de Cuba. Well, that’s probably enough and maybe even far too much. But then, you think – eyes suddenly a little moist and smile a little wistful - what about old el beret himself – Ché Guevara? After all, you either had his throbbingly handsome profile adorn your university hall of residence walls or your mum did. So you really can’t come to Cuba and miss out on el Chè, can you? And that looks like it means a trip to a city called Santa Clara which looks like it’s in the middle of the island. But when you turn to page 221 in your guide book and read all about it your spirits sink somewhat as you realise there’s absolutely nothing else there of note but His remains and His very large statue. And so, very regretfully, you say chao chao, bye bye Santa Clara. But this is where we rush in and say no, no, no, no (as Cubans do). That you have to go to Santa Clara. And that it has nothing to do with el Ché. You have to go to Santa Clara because that’s where El Mejunje is. Tucked away in a small side street right in the centre of town, El Mejunje has been described by various users and visitors as: " …my heaven on earth", "…its where I realised all my life’s dreams" , " …its totally unique" , " …I would never have achieved what I have achieved in my life without the place" , "…it literally saved my life" , "…it made my career" , " …I simply belong here" "…when I walk in I can just be myself" So what on earth is this place that the vast majority of Santaclareños have been brought up with and are so passionate about? And who is the person that most speak of with such affection, reverence and respect, that founded it, and who still runs – with everything, amazingly in local money - this 7 day-and-night-a-week venue? Our story begins with a young man, Ramon Silverio, born into extreme poverty in the Cuban province of Santa Clara and whose first passion was seeing the rather poor, but magical, travelling circus that visited the rural communities where he lived. His fascination and nostalgia for the idea of the circus show with its magician, its rumba dancer and its fire-eater never left him. Silverio then worked for many years as a teacher in these rural areas and gradually became involved in community theatre as both actor and director. " … it was something I really wanted to do –and we still maintain this work today– that of going to the most inaccessible and poor areas of the countryside – wanting to awake the same excitement that I experienced as a child…I have never lost the enthusiasm for all that"  And so, in 1984, then, as now, based in the city of Santa Clara, and inspired by the new tradition in Havana of the peña (informal music, poetry and dance get-togethers), he began dreaming of creating his own cultural venue –el Mejunje– which simply translates as a mixture of things. Silverio was looking to create an urban space dedicated to "culture without party politics" , where intellectuals, artists and anyone at all interested in the arts could meet and feel at ease, at home. After tremendous persistence –of which he has articulated lorry loads– much knocking on doors, against all odds and beginning with get–togethers in his own house, in 1991 he was offered a ruin in the centre of town which today is the bohemian home to half the population and to theatre performances, film, some of the best contemporary trova on the island, rock bands, a salsa/son dancing night, a kids morning and older citizens afternoons. And perhaps it is most famous for its Saturday night LGBTQ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer!), its transvestite parties and being home to the glorious Divas Cubanas (www.lasdivascubanas.com). The night I went 6 male models had rushed down from Havana to show off their designer knickers. And lovely they were too. I spoke to Silverio in his charming, but classically dilapidated town house in the centre of Santa Clara. Huge paintings and etchings adorned all walls and we were interrupted at various times by different artists and aficionados looking for help with lighting, clothes for a show, and then for some very sought after tickets to see Carlos Varela (one of Cuba’s most famous rock/trova stars) who was due to play there 2 months later. Silverio is on call 24/7 and seems to see that as something quite normal and natural. He originally had pretty modest intentions for the ruins of El Mejunje but, over the years, and with the devoted help of many artists, institutions and townspeople alike, he has converted the building into what can only be described as an utterly magic space. It’s still a ruin, no roof, like an open courtyard, where comical or socially hard-hitting graffiti decorates the walls and overhanging trees laden with lights shelter this unique and extraordinary community arts centre. And its where, Silverio told me, everything has just developed of its own accord, not by design everything has just developed of its own accord, not by design or in any way laid down by him. At the beginning, and for quite some time, Mejunje was known just as a place for gay men, and although there was a deal of discrimination –Cuba, remember, is a macho culture– there is certainly far less now. Santa Clara, including its police force, has, in many ways, been educated by Silverio and his Mejunje and everyone you meet talks about the level of consciousness and culture there. But although El Mejunje is so well known for its plurality and diverse activities, it has also, rightly, been acclaimed for its early and groundbreaking work in sexual education, dedicating much time and effort – through theatre, talks and the distributing of many, many condoms - to inform young people about safe sex and the management of HIV and Aids. This pioneering work was led by Las Divas Cubanas and still continues today. Many others, Silverio told me, have been converted in different way by the Mejunje experience. "…there was a time when El Mejunje was seen as a terrible place. Many alternative young people met there but couldn’t be open about it at home. They had to say something like "…we're going to that place" or "…see you at the place" . But as time went by things and minds changed, and now parents are happy that their kids are in El Mejunje and if their son or daughter is late home, they ring me to find out where they are, or if I have seen them!"  And so, today, El Mejunje represents plurality, diversity, acceptance, a sense of belonging and community, challenge and even scandal, "…and all this has contributed to its mystery. The people who were there at the beginning, well, now we have their sons and daughters, and we even see their grandchildren at the kids events! So you can say that El Mejunje is like a myth, an incredible thing, and a place where everyone wants to go and feels a part of ". Silverio is a man who likes to live in the present and says he has absolutely no truck with nostalgia or the past. And when we talked of the future he smiles and tells me that he believes he will simply live forever, that there is still so much to be done. He sees his task is now to focus on the new youth - to find out what they need, to encourage them to put on their music, come with their computers, create their own world in this, the ever evolving, magical world that is El Mejunje. One thing I can tell you is that you’ll need to find time for a few good catnaps if you plan throwing yourself into the whole affair. Mondays its jukebox night –more a family event - with music from the 50's and 60's, table games and competitions. Tuesdays is Rockoteca, with recorded and live music, and attracts a mainly young, student crowd. Wednesdays offer alternates between theatre, house music and "When We Were Young" with music from the 70's 80's and early 90's. Thursdays is the hugely popular Trovuntivitis - a night of live trova ( guitar playing singer-songwriters) and showcasing the crème de la crème of Cuba's very best young trova musicians. Most notable here is the wild and wonderful Roly Berrío. Fridays is called La Noche de Buena Suerte (Good Luck night) and a mainly young crowd enjoy live, traditional Cuban music (Son) and later dance the night away. Still got energy for the weekend? Saturday starts early at 10am with Afro-Cuban music and dance –Prayers to the Saints– and is followed at 5pm by a live music and poetry called ‘’Feeling’’, in the romantic bolero/jazz tradition and attracting a mainly older public. Then at 10pm –its either the wonderful Diva show or the LGBTQ (lesbians are visible but its predominantly gay men) disco. Sundays sees often no less than 100 kids whizzing and whirring madly around with clowns, listening to stories or playing games and dancing. Then at 5pm there’s either a son, danzon or Cuban country music evening –again mainly an older crowd. Then its time for another nap before your next LGBTQ disco at 7pm. Being at Mejunje, talking to Silverio, hanging out with the trovadores, with actors, writers, students, kids and the general public, I, for one, get moved to tears by this place almost every time I go. What is it that is so affecting and that makes people take their holidays just to go there, that has attracted documentary film-makers from all over the world and that leaves us outsiders so moved? I suspect its because its like a model of the way that things could and should be in a community. It’s a model of inclusion, not exclusion. It works, its self-regualting, its varied, its exciting but safe, it changes hearts and minds, its at the centre of the community’s cultural life, its physically and financially accessible to all and it caters for all. "It seems to me that its a place where we all fit in, thought not necessarily at the same time!", remarked local writer Yamil Diaz "…and if I", he continued, "make a stop in my usual writing schedule, to, for instance, dedicate time to help you with this article right now, its because of the great significance of this institution for me. As a Santaclareño and an intellectual from the provinces I will always be grateful to Mejunje for giving me the possibility to dream; to dream of how the future could be. Mejunje has opened its doors to everyone - an invincible space, extraordinary for its diversity, humanity, anti-discrimination and the unconditional way its risks everything in favour of justice and beauty". And finally, from Silverio: "I am" , he has said, "an actor, a militant, who has defended this space –this centre for good art– so that there is somewhere one can feel easy in and be oneself. I have never involved the place with party politics, rum or anti–culture. And, although I can’t fight discrimination and prejudice, in this place those things have to stay outside the door" So, if you come to Santa Clara you will find that, every night , in the little street called Calle Martha Abreu, very near to where they sell flowers, there’s an open door with a sign above that simply says, El Mejunje. Do not pass by this magical and unique place - a place that simply reminds us of what can be, and of some very important ways we might want to live our short lives.  |
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