My first visit to Cuba in 1993, bought me into contact with forts and colonial palaces, symbols of a rich and vibrant history; as well as spectacular landscapes, including imposing mountains, forests, cave-ridden hillocks and extensive, palm fringed, beaches. Further visits informed me about Cuba’s wildlife. I was fascinated to discover that creatures as distinct as the world’s smallest bird and frog lived on this Island, alongside crocodiles, bats, lizards, large tree-climbing rodents – named jutia, and a huge variety of other land and sea birds.
Then I began to explore Cuba’s surrounding waters. I found that here too exists evidence of a rich history, alongside dramatic and unusual scenery, and an abundance of interesting natural species. By now I was hooked. Unable to forget this Country, and its diverse undersea environment, I kept going back.
Shipwrecks
In Cuba I have visited many wrecks - some very old, others much newer, and all have a story to tell. The attraction of Varadero’s waters has been increased fourfold by the sinking of a number of boats. Barco Patrullero, built in 1945, was a Russian – Koni class, patrol ship, used by Cuban navy in the 1980’s. In the late 1990’s it took on another role as an artificial reef. It’s a fascinating ship to visit. Ninety-seven metres long, with its hull at a depth of 28 metres, it still has its guns, surface to air missiles and smoke dispensers. Finning over the deck it is easy to let your imagination run riot, and transport yourself back into the cold war era, when suspicion surpassed all reason, and countries sought to protect themselves from their ideological enemies. Close to Barco Patrullero is another sunken wreck – the Coral Negro, which served for a time as a restaurant and bar, and a small Russian AN 24 plane.
Further out, you can find Barco Hundido otherwise known as Neptuno, an older much more broken up wreck sunk in 1943, which has become home to some large moray eels, some of whom are more friendly than others. It is also a delight to watch the attractive groups of grunts and snappers milling in and around the small spaces between the wreckage. Not far from Neptuno, one of the sections of a sunken tanker is waiting to enthral the diver. Dominating and imposing, with its bright blue back-drop and colonies of marine life, I looked at this wreck with awe.
Though, a romantic at heart, I have always been lured towards history that is further removed from my own. This is why I enjoyed diving the Cristobal Colon wreck so much. A thrilling experience, especially when you take into account the historic events leading to its demise. In 1898 this armoured cruiser, 6,800 tons in weight, was the subject of an eighty-kilometre chase by American warships; one of the offensives towards gaining control of Cuba from the Spanish. Too badly damaged by gunfire, and unable to continue, its final resting place is close to the shore, around forty-five kilometres west of the town of Chivrico (Santiago de Cuba). Although broken in many places, and twisted towards the starboard side, you can still get a good impression of the strength and might of this ship. The engine room, with its heavy gears, is still discernible, and in places its hull remains proud. Time has increased the fascination attached to this historic attraction. Once again the Colon brims with life, though instead of people, hydroids, worms and colourful sponges have made it a more permanent home. Large glittering tarpon also offer the Colon their protection, as they weave their way stoically around the ship, alongside their more colourful helpers including different types of snapper, jacks and damselfish. Cuba has other historic wrecks and remnants. The Mortera – a Spanish merchant ship that sunk near Santa Lucia in 1896, now frequently visited by bull sharks, is another reminder of Cuba’s past masters. Additionally, in various places around Cuba, it is possible to find nails that once held wooden galleons together, as well as coral encrusted cannons and anchors.
Underwater Formations
As well as on land, hillocks or small mountains can be found underwater. One of the dive sites named Farallón in Los Jardines de la Reina (a one-hundred mile long archipelago off the south coast of Cuba) has five coral pinnacles, the tallest being around 20 metres. The pinnacles themselves yield an incredible range of life. Trailing whip corals, and colourful rope sponges extend into, and overhang the gaps between the small mounts. |
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These exist alongside fan like gorgonians and delicate looking flower corals – alongside more robust looking coral varieties. It is fun to wind your way around them. Who knows whom you may meet? Rotund and ugly mouthed jewfish favour the gaps between the mounts, as do tarpon, and even silky sharks, and the sandy floor below provides a resting place for the occasional eagle ray. With the brightly coloured tropical fish that inhabit this area, Farrallón provides a fine example of Cuba’s special underwater environment.
Undersea forests
There are also undersea forests. Around Cayo Coco, off the north coast, dense and lush mini forests of sea rods, fans and fingers wave gently along with the current. It’s a colourful, calm, yet lively scene. The cover offered by the corals offers a good hiding place for different types of groupers, including those of the tiger, nassau, black and red hind species. Thanks to the sea fans’ elegant waves, their hiding place does not last for long.
Dense carpets of coral often flourish close to the tops of Cuba’s southern walls. I particularly enjoy searching these areas for smaller species such as shrimps, flamingo tongue snails – with their interesting orangish markings - outlined in brownish-black, as well as feather like fan worms and small blennies and gobies. Its in areas such as these that you can find moray eels peering out from the crevices that they have made their home. I find these creatures fascinating. Mouth open and eyes staring at you, the word demonic comes to mind. Though they also have a certain beauty. Their colours are often striking - particularly the Green moray, and their movements can be graceful and gentle.
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Walls
The island’s sea walls themselves can be striking. Extending outwards, the large and colourful rope, pipe and elephant ear sponges make a bold contrast with the surrounding blue depths. Some of the sponges are embellished with jewels. Small, golden and flowerlike zoanthids cover thin rope sponges in winding chains. Delicate pink, purple and blue vase sponges add more texture and brightness to the walls, alongside the encrusting sponges, gorgonians and hard corals. |
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Obtaining a glimpse of some prized black coral interests many divers, and there is generally a good chance of finding some along your route, although given that its polyps can be a grey or muted brown in colour, its fine branches may not be as impressionable as the sponges. Wall diving has the potential for an odd surprise: if you look outwards you might spot some passers-by, which from August to December could even be a whale shark.
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Caves
When it comes to caves, there is much to chose from in Cuba’s subaquatic world. El Brinco cave (Playa Giron) is one that has become etched in my memory. On first sight, this cave’s dark looking small pool, filled with a mix of salt and fresh water, offers little enticement to the diver, alhough it has a special treat in store for those inclined to enter. The timing is crucial, undertaking a descent to around 38 metres, then ascending via a tunnel for around 4 metres or so, you need to re-enter the main pool at around mid-day. This is when the sun is high enough to filter through a hole in the top of the cave, directly onto the water below. On impact the sun extends a wide golden white ray, through the dark greenish water. As you place yourself in its midst, the light consumes and energises. Touched by the sun’s tentacles, you can only leave the cave on a high note.
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Also accessed via the land are the Saturno caves, near Varadero. Stalactites and stalagmites await you in this caves system, and blind fish and shrimps inhabit its cool waters.
Another interesting, yet quite different cave is El Salon de Maria, accessed from Maria la Gorda (western Cuba). This has a more colourful and cosy environment. Located at a depth of around twenty metres, the cave’s walls and ceiling are decorated with a plethora of pink, blue, green and purple sponges and corals. Small internal pillars, also made of coral, interspersed with fragile looking feather stars, break up the space to create a more homely feel. Whip corals trailing from the ceiling add atmosphere to this fairy-tale place. It is not surprising that a few groupers, as well as basslets and grunts have made this their home.
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Cuba´s underwater sandy plains and channels
Cuba’s underwater sandy plains and channels, akin to the Country’s beaches, also hold a fascination. All around the island, a phenomenal range of species can be found hiding in, or just resting on the sand. Peacock flounders – spotted by their blue markings lay semi-covered, as do rays of all kinds, including southern stingrays, yellow stingrays and eagle rays. Trunkfishes and jacks often hover above them, waiting for any tasty morsels the feeding rays might dislodge. If you wait a while you might see the ray move its position. This is when you will experience the true beauty of these creatures, their fins moving gracefully, and in harmony with the water around them. Long, lumpy and mottled sea cucumbers spend their time on the sand, and it is fun to watch the busy translucent gobies burrowing in and out of the grains. Dig a little, and you may even find conchs, crabs and urchins. Nurse sharks too, see the sand as a good place to while away the time - particularly where there are overhanging ledges to provide extra protection; and if you are lucky, a turtle might pass over the bright white expanse. Sandy areas are also a good place to look for remnants of the past, since they can shield ballast stones – a key towards finding more interesting spoils from the ships that patrolled Cuba’s waters in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Cuba is a Country of historic and natural wonders, and as well as on land you can find these underwater. Plunge in! A whole new world awaits. Spectacular, lively and full of colour, this world not only tells us about Cuba’s past, it also makes use of it. Perhaps like me, you will find it hard to forget.
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