Tourists inspired by Ernest Hemingway, Graham Greene and Havana’s legendary decadence of long-gone decades are often disappointed by the drinking scene in the city. The classic Hemingway haunts have become tourist traps and after midnight, Old Havana largely shuts down even while the Malecón is packed 6 deep with locals and there are large queues outside some nightclubs. What Cuban bars do have however is great music, and in many places rich architectural heritage and a relaxed easy going environment. Drinks selection is usually relatively limited but will almost always do a great mojito. In recent years a number of more European-style lounge bars have opened, as well as a micro-brewery in the heart of the old city. Throw in some comedy options and a thriving gay scene and there are plenty of options.

The best Cuban salsa clubs host world-class Cuban bands on a nightly basis. The energy is infectious and dancing, spectacular. Having come to Cuba, you must see a top salsa/timba band. Discos cover a multiplicity of scenes, from the glitzy tourist venue to a smoky, hectic real Cuban locale. The music often varies from night to night with reggaeton being the current local favorite. In recent years, a thriving nouveau riche trendy Cuban party scene has grown up that gives you a glimpse of a possible future Havana. Held at different locales, this is the place to be if you want to be seen by and mingle with the Cuban cool set. There is also a thriving alternative scene where brilliant Cuban musicians improvise to a very local beat.

Music is everywhere in Havana. Locals joke that Cuba is the only country in the world where you have to pay musicians not to play. Most bars and restaurants feature trios, quartets and septets. The level of musical training is very high and one of the consequences of the US embargo is that, rather than being overrun by American pop, Cuba has nurtured its own unique blends of African and European rhythms–from rumba to bolero, cha-cha-cha to timba–and kept its level of creativity high. The best Cuban jazz is magnificent; unfortunately, you never quite know how good it will be. Experimental, daring, improvised, brilliant, terrible. Even as the actual members of Buena Vista Social Club succumb to old age, the number of events promising a ‘Buena Vista’ event seems to multiply.

Havana has a fertile performing arts scene. The city is home to one of the world’s best ballet companies, as well as the Afro-Cuban traditions of the Santería, Palo Monte and Abakuá religions. The city’s theatre is equally diverse. As a visitor, you can discover some unique Cuban forms like the 19th-century teatro bufo, or see how classics by Shakespeare, Sartre or Brecht can find thrilling new life in a Caribbean setting. There’s also a bright pantheon of writers who have produced challenging, original theatre work, following in the footsteps of the late playwright Virgilio Piñera. Beautiful dancers, great choreography and a natural exuberance and talent make cabaret a Cuban institution. As well as the glitzy Tropicana, there are also interesting Cuban cabarets and variety shows.